Sri Lanka
Cultural, Architectural & Artistic Wonders
To travel in Sri Lanka means stepping into a rich cultural history that transcends time and imbues every element of the present. The past unfolds before our lenses—from ancient ruins to a modern port city—as the people of this tiny island country continue deep-rooted traditions.
Located only 500 miles off the southern tip of India, this small teardrop-shaped island—only slightly larger than the state of West Virginia—offers a photogenic wealth of sacred and royal cities, colonial fortresses, palm-lined beaches and cool, verdant highlands. Six culturally significant UNESCO World Heritage Sites have been designated in Sri Lanka—and, during our two-week visit, we visit all of them. Concentrated on the southern half of the island is the renowned triangle of World Heritage sites—ancient Polonnaruva and Sigiriya, sacred Anarahhapura and Kandy, the cave temples of Dumballa, and colonial Galle.
We begin in Colombo, on the southwest coast and by far the largest city. Colombo bridges the centuries—colonial buildings stand alongside Hindu, Buddhist, Islamic structures, and modern glass-and-metal-skyscrapers in a fantastic photogenic blend of history and cultures.
En route to Anuradhapura, we pause to photograph at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. Mornings and evenings the elephants walk—almost a quarter mile—down a narrow shop-lined street to bathe in the wide, shallow waters of the Maha Ova River.
The former capital of Anauradhapura, abandoned in 993 BC and hidden by dense jungle until the 19th century, has at its sacred heart some of Sri Lanka’s most majestic stupas—marvels of engineering. From exposed warm sun-baked brick to the perfect shape of a gleaming white-painted “floating bubble” protected by photogenic lines of carved elephants standing shoulder to shoulder, the spires of the city’s stupas pierce the blue sky.
The most famous archeological site on the island, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa and the second capital after Anauradhapura, is the setting of the acme of Sinhalese rock carving—the four Buddha statues at Gal Vihara. Carved out of a massive granite cliff and swept with sinuous streaks of darker veins of color, the beauty and serenity of these magnificent Buddha sculptures transcend the ages.
We approach the “Fortress in the Sky,” Sigiriya or the Lion’s Rock, a massive volcanic plug, visible for miles, rising steeply above the surrounding lush green jungle—where a 5th-century fortress and palace once commanded the view. Only remnants of the foundations remain on the nearly 4-acre top, but 1,000-year-old colorful frescos of goddesses cover the sheer western face of the rock and expansive panoramas make a climb to the top one of the signature experiences in Sri Lanka.
Following a stop at the Golden Temple of Dambulla—the biggest and best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka—we arrive in the city of Kandy, the island’s artistic and cultural center. In the heart of Kandy, on an artificial lake built in 1807 by the last king, reflections of the surrounding temples, historic buildings and gardens seem to float in the sky. On the lakeshore sits the red-roofed white Temple of the Tooth—its richly-decorated interior reportedly contains one of Buddha’s teeth.
Traveling by the mist-shrouded tea plantations of the cool highlands and stopping en route to photograph an aboriginal Veddah village, we reach the south coast and the old fortress town of Galle where European architecture meets South Asian tradition. The fort at Galle, built by the Dutch in the 17th century, commands the southernmost shore as breaking waves roll in from across the Indian Ocean. The well-built fort withstood the destructive 2004 Boxing Day tsunami, while much of the city sustained extensive damage and many people lost their lives. The colonial flavor remains, however, and the city’s network of alleyways, colorful market stands and small shops provide a wonderful variety of photo subjects. In nearby small coastal villages we can still find photogenic glimpses into the lives of the local fishermen—from the nets and catamarans of the deep water fishermen to the iconic, but rapidly disappearing, stilt fishermen perched on long sticks planted in chest-deep waters as the sun sets in the west.
Sri Lanka is a journey through time where the past unfolds before our cameras. An often-overlooked gem, it is a land where an array of cultures and a treasure trove of architectural and artistic wonders hold the pieces of the past in the recess of a temple cave or a jungle-engulfed ancient ruin awaiting discovery.
Itinerary
Day 1
Depart home.
Day 2
Travel day.
Day 3 (Dec 4)
Arrive in Colombo after midday. (Participants arriving in the early morning hours should request an extra hotel night, Dec 3.) Meet for an introductory evening orientation. (D)
Day 4
The capital city contains modern hotels and ornate temples in the South Indian style—truncated four-sided pyramids and Buddhist architecture is abundant. Amid these classic buildings we photograph a model in traditional dress. (BLD)
Day 5
Shortly after leaving Colombo, we stop at the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage to witness their morning bath in the river. Shooting from a slight rise above the river and near water level, we hope to photograph baby elephants, as well. After lunch we continue through forests and hills to a small town near the ancient capital of Anuradhapura. (BLD)
Day 6
Anuradhapura became the capital of the Sinhalese in the same era that Plato led the Academy in ancient Athens. The city remained the capital for 1,000 years, despite the fact it was repeatedly invaded by South Indian armies. At its peak it held a population of 30,000, but finally gave way to Polonnaruwa and fell into disrepair. The archaeological site is large and the few concentrations of buildings that remain are impressive—primarily slender pillars and domed stupas. It is also home to a bodhi tree purportedly grown from a cutting of the tree that shaded the Buddha when he attained enlightenment. The tree has been tended by the same family for over two millennia. (BLD)
Day 7
We devote the morning to photographing Polonnaruwa, the other great ancient capital. This area is known for remarkable giant stone Buddha carvings that look as if they were completed only yesterday. Stone skeletons of the palace and buildings remain—again returned to light from the power of time and jungle growth—some pillars standing and others strewn on the ground amidst lush greenery. We take full advantage of twilight and early evening. (BLD)
Day 8
After a morning to rest, we drive to Sigiriya, or Lion’s Rock, the site of an ancient fortress perched high atop a stone prominence. A set of stairs ascends the rock. On a cave wall midway up the steps we encounter incredibly well-preserved frescoes of topless maidens painted 1,500 years ago. As we continue up, we pass 1,000-year-old graffiti where passersby scribbled their impressions of the paintings (generally, men were smitten and women irked). Continue to the Lion Platform where once a mighty brick lion statue rested—only the massive toes and steps remain. A steep section brings us to the summit where we find only the foundations of earlier structures and a panoramic view of central Sri Lanka. (BLD)
Day 9
On the drive to Kandy, we stop at the cave temples of Dambulla. Kandy resisted European domination for over 300 years, long after the coastal areas had been subdued. It remains the Sinhalese cultural and spiritual center, a quiet city surrounding a lake nestled among forested hills. We visit the Temple of the Tooth where one of the Buddha’s teeth lies in state, and photograph dancers, drummers and other performers. (BLD)
Day 10
We continue to explore Kandy and the surrounding countryside, photographing models and cultural high points. (BLD)
Day 11
As we head south the road climbs towards the island’s highlands. We stop in Dambana to visit a community of Veddhas, the aboriginal people of Sri Lanka. As we approach Nuwara Eliya, the temperature drops, and we pass through miles of tea plantations where colorfully-dressed local women pick tea leaves. Nuwara Eliya was the summer refuge for British colonialists, and it shows in the imitation Tudor architecture found around the city. It still serves as a getaway for the country’s elite. (BLD)
Day 12
We spend the day descending to the southern coast. Before leaving the highlands, we see the Buduruvagala Buddha, a 51-foot-high bas relief attended by two smaller bodhisattvas and their celestial companions. These are Mahayana carvings on an island that considers itself the home of Theravada Buddhism, the school that predominates in Southeast Asia. (BLD)
Day 13
We drive to Galle stopping to photograph fishermen in their boats, the stilt fishermen of at Weligama, villages and seascapes. The southern coast was hit hard by the Sumatra tsunami of December 2004. Most of the damage has been cleared, but remnants are occasionally visible. (BLD)
Day 14
Galle was once the center of Dutch colonialism. It is a wonderful place to explore, with interesting shops and vendors, a Dutch fort dating back to the 16th century when the Portuguese were in charge, and the opportunity for people watching. Along the coast we photograph the distinctive catamarans, fishermen tending their nets and drying fish, stilt fishermen in the shallows, classic tropical beaches and daily life in the villages. (BLD)
Day 15
We follow the coast back to Colombo, photographing daily life on the beaches. (BLD)
Day 16 (Dec 17)
Depart Sri Lanka.
Trip Highlights
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Vibrant and photogenic cultures: Tamil Hindus, aboriginal tribesmen and the Theravada Buddhist majority
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World Heritage sites from Polonnaruwa—the city of the Buddhas—to the stupas of Anuradhapura, from ancient Lion’s Rock to the beauty of Dumballa’s cave temples, and from scenic Kandy to the colonial fortifications of Galle
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The natural beauty of misty mountain tea plantations and tropical beaches vies for attention with ornate Hindu temples and serene Buddhist statuary
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Capture images of iconic stilt fishermen, drummers and dancers, monks and market vendors
Tour Details
Dates
Dec 2–17, 2011
Fee
$4,995 from Colombo, Sri Lanka
Deposit
$400
Limit
15
Terms & Conditions