Nova Scotia

Rugged rocky headlands, lighthouses carved into granite ledges, quiet harbors on foggy mornings, tide pools and crashing waves, and hillsides of blazing fall-colored maples—all describe the photographic potential of Nova Scotia’s southern shore in early October. On the Lighthouse Route—from Shelburne to Peggys Cove in the photogenic heart of Maritime Canada—we discover an often craggy, glacially-carved coastline where picturesque villages are tucked into quiet protected bays and fishermen still row their dories out to sea.

Nova Scotia boasts the largest number of lighthouses of any Canadian province. Along our route more than twenty structures stand sentinel on granite headlands or in harbor entrances. We have a wealth of opportunities to photograph a number of these in the changing light of autumn. Lobster traps piled high on weathered docks and lichen-encrusted, sun-bleached shingles of waterfront fish houses create the perfect backdrop for colorful hanging pot buoys. Schooners wait in protected harbors and wooden dories line the docks. Our visit is timed for the predicted peak of autumn color in the Maritimes. With luck we photograph not only the vibrant trees themselves, but also their reflections mirrored in tranquil ponds and quiet inlets.

Peggys Cove is certainly among the most photographed locations in Canada—and with good reason! This small idyllic fishing village perched along a narrow ocean inlet provides a safe haven for boats during the North Atlantic’s rough weather. We spend a day photographing its charming surroundings and famous lighthouse situated on a wave-washed granite point facing the blue Atlantic.

In nearby Lunenburg, a colorful waterfront, narrow streets and captivating architecture radiate the flavor of its seafaring heritage. The early settlers were primarily farmers, but quickly turned to the sea for their livelihood, building a world-class cod fishery and shipbuilding industry. At the turn of the century Lunenburg’s schooner fleet sailed the Grand Banks, competing with the Yankee fishermen of New England to bring home an incredible profusion of cod. In present day, the old-town harbor with its tall ships and wooden fishing boats is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In Nova Scotia one is never far from the sea. At every turn of road—or of tide—and every change of light on surf-washed rocks or silver-gray weathered wood, opportunities for images appear. In Nova Scotia one is never far removed from the deep historic roots of a Maritime seafaring tradition. The many lighthouses along our route form a photogenic chain that links the land to the sea.