In southwestern Bolivia, there is a place like nowhere else on Earth. The vast Salar de Uyuni—the largest salt flat in the world—is a land of stark sun-bleached white during the dry season. But at the end of March, following the rains of the South American summer, this smooth expanse is often still covered with a shallow layer of water—and the Salar becomes the “Mirror of the Sky.” Like a giant silver gazing ball, the water pooled atop snow-white salt reflects an azure sky with billowing clouds to infinity. The horizon vanishes and the sky and the land become one. And at sunrise, colors, from palest lavender to warmest orange, can blaze the sky—and echo perfectly below. Where the water evaporates, the salt pan retains intricately-textured hexagonal patterns. Cones of drying salt, mined from the billions of tons that fill these flats, are placed in photogenic lines that diminish into the distance.
Our high-altitude Photo Safari travels across the rugged habitats of the world’s driest desert and the sweeping Altiplano plains of Chile and Bolivia. Here, adventurous travelers—wildlife photographers and landscape shooters alike—encounter unearthly landscapes and unusual wildlife, as well as engaging cultural experiences, in one of the least-photographed destinations on the planet.
Sunrise at the 14,000-foot-high Tatio Geyser Field—the third largest in the world—is a play of light and mist, a dawn dance between earth and sky in the frigid mountain air. Remote high plateau lakes—Laguna Verde and Laguna Colorada—are vividly colored by minerals and algae and host a remarkable variety of birds, especially photogenic pink flamingos. The red-tinted water of Laguna Colorada is home to rare James’ flamingos where—this is “big glass” country—lenses in the 300–500mm range are appropriate for tight wildlife shots, while shorter lenses capture the birds in the expansive landscape. Laguna Verde’s marvelous jade green waters perfectly reflect the conic shape of 19,000-foot-high Volcano Licancabur.
And here, on the edge of civilization, we also meet the rugged people who call this land home. Quechua salt miners, shepherds, weavers and artisans—we will take time to document their isolated way of life in this extremely inhospitable environment.
In this lofty world punctuated by the towering snow-capped Andes, we traverse fantastic landscapes of gleaming salt flats that mirror the sky, explore lakes of astounding hue and steaming geyser country—and photograph an exciting assortment of South American wildlife, including three species of flamingos, high-altitude waterfowl, Andean foxes, vicuňas and viscachas. On the Altiplano the balance of wildlife and landscape photo opportunities is an extraordinary highlight.
Itinerary
Day 1
Participants fly to Santiago, Chile.
Day 2 (Mar 13)
Arrive in Santiago and transfer to our hotel. We meet for dinner, group introductions, and a short logistical briefing this evening. (D)
Day 3
An early morning flight delivers us to Calama in northern Chile. Located within the Atacama Desert, Calama is one of the driest cities in the world with average annual precipitation of just 0.2 inches (5 mm). We drive southeast to San Pedro de Atacama, located at over 8,000 feet (2,400 m) in elevation. This city is surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes, salt lakes and fertile desert oases. Our destination is the spectacular Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) with the goal to be there for late afternoon and evening light. We capture dramatic images of rippling wind-sculpted rock formations and polychrome dunes as the sunset light shifts from golden to cerulean. (Breakfast airport snack on your own, LD)
Day 4
We spend the morning exploring Chaxa Lake in Los Flamencos National Reserve. Many Altiplano bird species can be photographed around the lake—Puna plovers, Andean avocets, Andean gulls, Chilean, James’ and Andean flamingos, and a host of smaller birds. In the evening we return to the photogenic Valle de la Luna. (BLD)
Day 5
A pre-dawn drive brings us to the Tatio Geysers. This vast geyser field—with as many as 80 active geothermal features—is in an Andean valley at almost 14,000 feet (4,300 m) above sea level. With temperatures well below freezing, strong flows of superheated water vapor rise into the air, reaching heights of up to 40 feet (13 m) in the morning light. Making our way back to San Pedro, we visit the town of Machuca for images of alpaca and llama shepherds and for waterbirds, like giant and Andean coots, crested ducks, Puna teal, silvery grebes and Andean geese, inhabiting the local wetland. (BLD)
Day 6
We drive to Bolivia this morning, crossing the border at Cajones Pass. Changing to four-wheel drive vehicles we navigate this wild country without paved roads. Although this region is part of the Atacama Desert, there are hidden rivers feeding wetlands and enormous lakes that support a wide diversity of wildlife. We visit Laguna Verde (Green Lake), one of the highest lakes in the world. With ample summer rains, the emerald waters of the lake should provide a dramatic contrast with the conical Licancabur Volcano reflected in it. We shoot the vast Laguna Colorada (Red Lake), tinted by algae and volcanic sediments. An important population of endangered James’ (Puna) flamingos nests on islands in the middle of the lake. James’ flamingos were thought extinct until a remote population was re-discovered in 1956. The flamingos are spectacular, but the lake itself provides strong graphic photo opportunities—even without the striking pink birds! (BLD)
Day 7
We drive across miles of photogenic landscape stopping where light, clouds and geology come together for great images. Photography at Laguna Hedionda yields wildlife images of Andean gulls, silvery grebes, Puna ibis and numerous unwary flamingos. Strange Inca funerary ruins at the small town of San Juan end our day. (BLD)
Day 8
This morning we photograph a Quechua llama drive in San Juan and regional quinoa plantations before reaching the biggest salt flat on Earth—the Salar de Uyuni! Amazing salt polygons adorn the snow-white surface. The vast white expanse is interrupted only by cactus-covered basaltic formations known as “islands.” Here, on the islands, we photograph the gigantic cacti standing more than 25 feet tall against an azure sky and an endless sea of salt. Now, after the rains, the white salt with a thin cover of water make it possible to compose spectacular reflected mirror images of clouds and the infinite horizon. We stay this evening in a Uyuni hotel whose architecture and much of its furniture is constructed entirely of salt blocks! (BLD)
Days 9–10
These two days begin with sunrise photography on the salt flats and a mining area for fantastic images of the man-made salt cones reflected in shallow water. We see and shoot the process of extracting and drying the salt. Uyuni is considered Bolivia’s “Far West” and we find fascinating photo subjects here, including a surreal train cemetery, the Tunupa Volcano and “Fish Island” at sunset. (BLD)
Day 11
We drive back to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile, stopping along the way for shepherds with llamas and alpacas. We expect to see wild vicuñas—the smallest member of the camel family—and photogenic landscapes featuring volcanic mountain peaks. (BLD)
Day 12
Another section of Los Flamencos National Reserve is our destination today, a region dotted by rivers, salt lakes, and broad plains of the Altiplano. A photogenic group of eroded volcanic structures called the Pacana Guardians commands our attention. In some ways, the “Guardians” are Chile’s “Monument Valley” and bring a certain familiarity to those photographers who have spent time shooting in America’s southwest! Later we shoot the dazzling vibrancy of colorful flamingos and the rainbow of colors that paint the salt plains in evening light at Salar de Pujsa. (BLD)
Day 13
We retrace our path to the airport in Calama and board our flight to Santiago. (B, Lunch airport snack on your own, D)
Day 14 (Mar 25)
We visit the vineyards of the Maipo Valley and taste some of Chile’s world-renowned wines. This evening we transfer to the airport and depart for home. (B)
Day 15
Arrive home.
PLEASE NOTE: The Altiplano and areas of the Atacama Desert are located at elevations between 8,000 and 15,000 feet. Persons with heart, respiratory or overweight conditions should consult their doctor before enrolling. Although this trip is not strenuous, extended periods at high altitude can be tiring and altitude sickness is a possibility. Prescription medications are available that can lessen the effect of high altitude. This trip contains a few long drives, cold morning temperatures, and stretches of wilderness drives where toilet facilities may be unavailable.