Beluga Whales
Wildlife & Landscapes of Canada's High Arctic
Arctic whalers of the 1800s called the white beluga whale the “sea canary” because of its rich repertoire of underwater chirps and whistles. The grizzled, weather-hardened whalers heard the whales “singing” through the wooden hulls of their sailing ships and—after months of toiling in the frigid ice-choked waters of the Arctic—found that the belugas’ music lifted their flagging spirits.
Today, in a unique place in the Canadian High Arctic, the mesmerizing songs of the beluga whale can still be heard at close range—and unparalleled photo opportunities abound. Cunningham Inlet is located 500 miles above the Arctic Circle along the northern coastline of Somerset Island in Nunavut. Here, in the shallow water and relative warmth of the inlet, hundreds of belugas, including nursing mothers with newborn calves, gather every summer.
The adult beluga—probably alone among all whale species—undergoes an intense period of molt during July and August. By rolling and rubbing on the fine gravels and sands of the river estuary bottom, the whales hasten the shedding of their yellowed outer skin—and return to their characteristic creamy white color. At the edge of the Cunningham River, pods of belugas spy-hop, twist and comically contort their bodies—a behavior first filmed in the 1980s by British naturalist Sir David Attenborough.
This is an austere landscape where the bones of the earth form expansive rolling tundra—carpeted by a diminutive world of arctic vegetation—and steep-walled canyons flank the sinuous edges of a crystal-clear river. Where groups of wooly muskoxen are spotted over the crest of a low rise of land and arctic foxes may cross our path. And where breeding birds of the High Arctic are commonly encountered. Along with several species of photogenic shorebirds, we may find peregrine falcons, northern rough-legged hawks, brant geese, three species of loons, arctic terns, black guillemots, northern fulmars and snow buntings. A land where colorful wildflowers and blooming tundra plants make their fleeting appearance—and the 24 hours of daylight allows ample time for macro images. And the soft light of the summer “night” tints the boundless sky in ethereal shades of delicate color.
For the first time Joseph Van Os Photo Safaris offers a rare opportunity to photograph the summering belugas in the Canadian High Arctic. While staying in a remote comfortable lodge, we have ample opportunity to explore the rich surrounding tundra of Somerset Island and experience the wild beauty of the High Arctic ecosystem—a fragile landscape under siege from global climate change. No one knows how much longer this cetacean wildlife spectacle will last.
For over 30 years, trip leader Wayne Lynch has traveled extensively in the Arctic—including Cunningham Inlet to photograph the pods of molting belugas—capturing the magical allure of this austere land and the raw beauty of its wildlife. Join him for a memorable visit to the distant summering grounds of the “sea canary”—the beluga whale.
Itinerary
Day 1
Participants fly to Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories via Calgary or Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. A hotel overnight (not included in the trip fee) may be required en route.
Day 2 (Jul 21)
The trip officially begins and ends in Yellowknife—a city located just south of the Arctic tree line. Beyond the city’s urban hustle and bustle stretches the vast wilderness of the Arctic that covers nearly a third of Canada. We meet our trip leader tonight for dinner at our hotel. (D)
Day 3
This morning we board our private charter aircraft for the 1,000-mile flight to Somerset Island, making a short fuel stop in the Inuit community of Cambridge Bay en route. We arrive at our lodge in late afternoon in time for dinner and a leisurely stroll on the surrounding tundra—looking for nesting birds and wildflowers in the low glancing light of the long Arctic evening. We will have entered the Land of the Midnight Sun and, for the days that we are here, the sun will never set. (BLD)
Day 4
Following breakfast we walk the short distance to the mouth of the Cunningham River for our first photo session with the beluga whales. Later, we learn how to drive our convenient all-terrain vehicles—which allow us the freedom to explore more distant locations. After lunch we hike to 50-foot-high Triple Waterfalls to look for nesting birds, including peregrine falcons, and to photograph arctic flowers and insects, such as predatory wolf spiders, polar bumblebees and long-legged crane flies. Macro photography can be an unexpected joy in the Arctic! (BLD)
Day 5
Traveling by ATVs, we cross the Cunningham River and follow Muskox Ridge to Inukshuk Lake. Sightings of muskoxen are almost guaranteed and we also search for arctic foxes, which regularly den in the area. Our return trip takes us along the River Trail to view hoodoo formations. After dinner, we return to the river’s mouth to photograph the belugas. (BLD)
Day 6
Today we spend the entire day with the belugas, making several trips to the river’s mouth to photograph these handsome sea canaries. The best beluga photography often coincides with low tide—when the whales can become temporarily stranded in the shallow water. (BLD)
Day 7
A number of different activities occupy our attention today. A Mercedes Unimog all-terrain truck ferries us to Flatrock Falls and we hike to Gull Canyon to photograph nesting black-legged kittiwakes. Later in the day we continue to explore the rolling tundra surrounding our lodge. (BLD)
Day 8
Our ATVs carry us to Cape Anne where we focus our lenses on the dramatic arctic scenery, icebergs and ancient Thule campsites. As always, we are on the lookout for opportunities to photograph wildlife. (BLD)
Day 9
Traveling by all-terrain truck, we drive to a raft put-in point on the Cunningham River. We hike the final three miles through picturesque badlands to capture some of the scenic beauty with our cameras. It’s not uncommon to encounter muskoxen, geese, jaegers, arctic foxes, shorebirds and rough-legged hawks along the way. After a picnic lunch on the beach, we raft the swift-flowing and crystal-clear river—a 2 to 3-hour trip which does not involve any difficult sections or rapids—through a steep-walled landscape of pristine isolation. (BLD)
Day 10
Today on our final day in the splendid solitude of Somerset Island, we spend our time revisiting sites that were especially productive for photography—including, of course, a return trip to the belugas at the river’s mouth. In the late afternoon our chartered airplane returns us to Yellowknife. (BLD)
Day 11 (Jul 30)
Participants depart Yellowknife for home via Edmonton or Calgary.
About our Lodge:
Accommodations at our lodge are in double occupancy cabins. In general, single occupancy is not available. Each cabin is outfitted with a marine toilet and cold water sink. Thermos bottles with hot water are offered to guests every night. Hot shower facilities are located in the main complex of the lodge. 110-volt electricity is provided by generator. Beds have thick duvets for the cool arctic nights. The main lodge complex also houses a dining room—serving excellent and hearty meals, including local foods—a lounge and an activities/gear room. An interpretive center has an extensive arctic library and contains regional artifacts, traditional Inuit clothing, 42-million-year-old wood, bones and fossils, and detailed geological and geographical maps.
Trip Highlights
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Photograph one of the most unique gatherings of whales in the world—up to 2,000 belugas concentrate on shallow water gravel beds in Cunningham Inlet
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Discover Thule archaeological sites, arctic wildflowers, waterfalls and a wealth of wildlife in the Land of the Midnight Sun
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Experience the raw beauty and breathtaking isolation of the pristine Canadian High Arctic
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Reside in comfort in the northernmost remote lodge in the world
Tour Details
Dates
Jul 20–30, 2011
Fee
$9,595 Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada
Deposit
$2,000
Limit
14
Special Terms & Conditions