In southwestern Bolivia, there is a place like nowhere else on Earth. The vast Salar de Uyuni—the largest salt flat in the world—is a land of stark sun-bleached white during the dry season. But at the end of March, following the rains of the South American summer, this smooth expanse is often still covered with a shallow layer of water—and the Salar becomes the “Mirror of the Sky.” Like a giant silver gazing ball, the water pooled atop snow-white salt reflects an azure sky with billowing clouds to infinity. The horizon vanishes and the sky and the land become one. And at sunrise, colors, from palest lavender to warmest orange, can blaze the sky— and echo perfectly below. Where the water evaporates, the salt pan retains intricately-textured hexagonal patterns. Cones of drying salt, mined from the billions of tons that fill these flats, are placed in photogenic lines that diminish into the distance.
Our rugged, high-altitude Photo Safari journeys to the sweeping Altiplano plains of Chile and Bolivia and to the formidable Atacama Desert region of northern Chile. Here, adventurous travelers—wildlife photographers and landscape shooters alike—encounter unearthly landscapes and unusual wildlife, as well as engaging cultural experiences, in one of the least-photographed destinations on the planet.
Sunrise at the 14,000-foot-high Tatio Geyser Field—the third largest in the world—is a play of light and mist, a dawn dance between earth and sky in the frigid mountain air. Remote high plateau lakes—Laguna Verde and Laguna Colorado—are vividly colored by minerals and algae and host a remarkable variety of birds, especially photogenic pink flamingos. The red-tinted water of Laguna Colorado is home to rare James’ flamingos where—this is “big glass” country—lenses in the 400–500mm range are appropriate for tight wildlife shots, while shorter lenses capture the birds in the expansive landscape. Laguna Verde’s marvelous jade green waters perfectly reflect the conic shape of 19,000-foot-high Volcano Licancabur.
And here, on the edge of civilization, we also meet the rugged people who call this land home. Salt miners, shepherds, weavers and artisans—we have ample opportunity to document their isolated way of life in this extremely inhospitable environment.
In this lofty world punctuated by the towering snow-capped Andes, we traverse fantastic landscapes of gleaming salt flats that mirror the sky, explore lakes of astounding hue and steaming geyser country—and photograph an exciting assortment of South American wildlife, including three species of flamingos, high-altitude waterfowl, Andean foxes, guanacos, vicuňas and viscachas. On the Altiplano and in the Atacama Desert, the balance of wildlife and landscape photo opportunities is an extraordinary highlight.
Itinerary
Day 1
Participants fly to Santiago, Chile.
Day 2 (Mar 21)
Arrive in Santiago and transfer to our hotel. We meet for dinner, group introductions, and a short logistical briefing this evening. (D)
Day 3
An early morning flight delivers us to Calama in northern Chile. Located within the Atacama Desert, Calama is one of the driest cities in the world with average annual precipitation of just 0.2 inches (5mm). We drive southeast to San Pedro de Atacama, located at over 8,000 feet (2,400m) in elevation. This city is surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes, salt lakes and fertile desert oases. Our destination is the spectacular Valle de la Luna (Valley of the Moon) with the goal to be there for late afternoon and evening light. We capture dramatic images of rippling wind-sculpted rock formations and polychrome dunes as the sunset light shifts from golden to cerulean. (Breakfast airport snack on your own, LD)
Day 4
We spend the day exploring the Atacama Salt Flat and Chaxa Lake in Los Flamencos National Reserve. Many Altiplano bird species can be photographed around the lake—Puna plovers, Andean avocets, Andean gulls, Chilean and Andean flamingos, and a host of smaller birds. Lunch is in the small town of Toconao, where the rustic church bell tower dates to 1750. We return to the Salt Flat and Chaxa Lake to shoot the dazzling vibrancy of colorful flamingos and the rainbow of colors that paint the salt plains in evening light. (BLD)
Day 5
A pre-dawn drive brings us to the Tatio Geysers. This vast geothermal geyser field is in an Andean valley at almost 14,000 feet (4,300m) above sea level. With temperatures well below freezing, strong flows of superheated water vapor rise into the air, reaching heights of up to 40 feet (13m) in the morning light. Making our way back to San Pedro, we visit the town of Machuca for images of alpaca and llama shepherds and for waterbirds inhabiting the local wetland. In late afternoon we visit the town of Chiu-Chiu and the Lasana Valley, where we photograph pre-Incan animistic petroglyphs. (BLD)
Day 6
We drive to Bolivia this morning, crossing the border at Cajones Pass. Changing to four-wheel drive vehicles we navigate this wild county without paved roads. Although this region is part of the Atacama Desert, there are hidden springs, rivers feeding wetlands and enormous lakes that support a wide diversity of wildlife. We photograph the sulfur geysers of Sol de Manana and visit Laguna Verde (Green Lake). The emerald waters of the lake provide a dramatic contrast with the conical Licancabur Volcano reflected it. We shoot the vast Laguna Colorada (Red Lake), tinted by algae and volcanic sediments. An important population of endangered James’ (Puna) flamingos nests on islands in the middle of the lake. James’ flamingos were thought extinct until a remote population was re-discovered in 1956. The flamingos are spectacular, but the lake itself provides strong graphic photo opportunities—even without the striking pink birds! (BLD)
Day 7
Dawn photography at Laguna Colorada. We drive to interesting wind-sculpted geological formations such as the “Stone Tree,” and photogenic Altiplano lakes where we can also capture wildlife images of Andean gulls, silvery grebes, Puna ibis and flamingos. Inca ruins and the picturesque small town of San Juan end our day. (BLD)
Day 8
Today we drive across the biggest salt flat on Earth—the Salar de Uyuni! Amazing salt polygons adorn the snow-white surface. The vast white expanse is interrupted only by cactus-covered basaltic formations known as “islands.” Here, on the islands, we photograph the gigantic cacti standing more than 25 feet tall against an azure sky and an endless sea of salt. Now, after the rains, the white salt and inch-deep water make it possible to compose spectacular reflected mirror images of clouds and the infinite horizon. We stay this evening in a Uyuni hotel whose architecture and furniture is constructed entirely of salt blocks! (BLD)
Day 9
The day begins early with photography of sunrise on the salt flat and a mining area for fantastic images of the man-made salt cones reflected in shallow water. We see and shoot the process of extracting and drying the salt. Uyuni is considered Bolivia’s “Far West” and we find fascinating photo subjects here, including a surreal train cemetery. (BLD)
Day 10
We drive back to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile, stopping along the way for shepherds with llamas and alpacas. We also expect to see wild vicuñas—the smallest member of the camel family, plus endearing viscachas and photogenic landscapes featuring volcanic mountain peaks. (BLD)
Day 11
Los Flamencos National Reserve is our destination today, a region dotted by rivers, salt lakes, peat bogs and broad plains of the Altiplano. A vast, photogenic group of eroded volcanic structures called the Pacana Guardians attracts our interest, as does Altiplano birdlife—diademed plovers, Puna ibis, horned coots, Puna teal, Puna rheas and other species. In some ways, the “Guardians” are Chile’s “Monument Valley” and bring a certain familiarity to those photographers who have spent time shooting in America’s southwest! (BLD)
Day 12
We retrace our path to the airport in Calama and fly north to Arica. Driving across the Lluta Valley, we photograph enormous cactus groves, visit the pre-Inca fortress of Copaquilla and explore the Andean town of Socoroma. Along the way we expect to see guanacos, vicuñas, Andean foxes, giant hummingbirds and rugged scenery. We stay this evening in Putre. (BD)
Day 13
Vistas of snow-capped volcanoes surround us as we visit the village of Ancuta, at the foot of the active Guallatire volcano. This area of Lauca National Park includes the Surire Salt Lake and salt flat, and the Chilcaya Natural Monument with unwary wildlife—Puna rheas, red-backed hawks, viscachas and vicuñas. (BLD)
Day 14
Another full day in Lauca National Park, the gem of northern Chile’s park system. Here we find the dramatic snow-capped volcanoes Polloquere and Pomerape reflected in Chungará Lake. We photograph wildlife at the peat bogs and in the wetlands—horned and giant coots, diademed plovers, and Andean flamingos. Time allowing, we also visit the tiny village of Parinacota to photograph local llama shepherds and weavers, before returning to Arica. (BLD)
Day 15 (Apr 3)
We fly to Santiago, to connect with flights homeward. (B)
Day 16
Arrive home.
PLEASE NOTE: Our Bolivia and Chile trip is operated almost completely within high altitude areas between 8,000 and 14,000 feet (2,400 to 4,300 m) Care should be taken in selecting this trip. Although this trip is not strenuous, altitude sickness is a possibility. Medications, available from your doctor, can lessen the possible effect of altitude. Please consult with your medical professional, before enrolling in this trip, if you have concerns about your participation therein.