Photo Safaris Blog

2011 Ultimate Antarctica Logbook

January 26th, 2012

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NOTE: You can download a PDF version of this logbook by clicking on the image to the left.

Monday 7 November, 2011 Depart Ushuaia—down Beagle Channel to Open Sea

Most of the Photo Safaris group spent the morning at Tierra del Fuego National Park. Following lunch, they returned to the Hotel Albatros to collect their hand luggage that had been left in the lobby and guarded by our staff while they were touring the park.

Our group of 82 (passengers and staff from 11 countries) boarded the Ushuaia by 1600 this afternoon. By 1830 we untied from the dock and were on our way. Southern beech trees, snowcapped mountains, incoming airplanes and the thriving southern city of Ushuaia receded from view as we sailed east through the verdant Beagle Channel towards the southern Atlantic.

Black-browed albatrosses, southern giant petrels, king cormorants, South American terns and many other birds accompanied our passage. After the emergency evacuation drill was accomplished we settled into what was to become our new regime for the next three weeks—a daily program of lectures or landings punctuated by excellent meals, great camaraderie and on-demand Photoshop/Lightroom assistance from the professional photographic team.

At nearly midnight, the harbor pilot left our ship at the mouth of the channel and we soon began to feel the rock and roll of open sea.

Tuesday 8 November At Sea towards the Falkland Islands

We experienced a calm day on the water (by Southern Ocean standards) with numerous seabirds swirling around the ship. We gained our “sea legs,” gradually getting used to the ship’s motion. Many passengers photographed flying birds from the rear decks. We had our first introduction to the lecture theater and its swashing water sounds from the ship’s “stabilizer,” deep within the bowels of the ship.

Joe Van Os and Monika Schillat presented an exciting talk on Hitting the Beach in the Falkland Islands, outlining the photographic possibilities as well as our care and obligations while visiting the region’s wildlife. An additional timetable of lectures on Photographic Composition from Mary Ann McDonald and The History and Geology of the Falkland Islands with Chris Edwards was presented.

Wednesday 9 November New Island, North—Ship Harbor

We arrived at the Falkland Islands at 2245 on the evening before our next-day landing, so a comfortable, flat-calm night was spent in a sheltered harbor of New Island. Breakfast commenced at 0700 and landings started at 0830.

The weather was great so, after a quick New Island introduction on what to see and a reminder on how to behave among the wildlife, we started landings on the small sandy beach. It was just a 20-minute walk to the cliff views and our first amazing seabird colony experience. Here, we had close-up views of many hundreds of black-browed albatrosses along a mile of cliff. Intermingled with the albatrosses, rockhopper penguins argued over nest sites, and king cormorants impressed mates with great beakfuls of seaweed for the nest. Halfway through the morning the calm changed, the wind increased and the birds started to fly, giving everyone fine views of the 9-foot wingspan of the black-browed albatrosses quartering the cliffs and flying in squadrons overhead.

Below the 1,200-foot-tall fluvial sandstone cliffs, big swells swirled the long strands of kelp and a pod of about 15 Peale’s dolphins worked the reefs and fished immediately below the bird colony. It was a great introduction to the Falklands.  View Entire Post…

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The Kingdom of Bhutan, 2011 Trip Report
by John Shaw

December 14th, 2011

You know it’s a good destination when everyone in our Joseph Van Os Photo Safaris group starts talking about wanting to make a return trip—and it’s only the third day in-country.  Bhutan is such a place.

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Some facts:

What country has a stylized dragon on its brilliant yellow and orange national flag?  Bhutan.

What country counts among its major objectives “gross national happiness?”  Bhutan.

What country has exactly one airport with one paved runway, serviced by only one airline?  Bhutan.

Drukair is one of the world’s smallest national airlines.  It has three aircraft: two Airbus 319s and one ATR-42 turboprop.  And eight pilots accredited to fly into the Paro airport.

Calling Bhutan a “mountain kingdom” is an understatement.  All roads and all trails sinuously switchback up and down the mountainsides.  As far as I know, the longest straight section of road in the entire country is barely one kilometer in length.

Wearing the traditional national costume while at work is required by law.

Children are eager to be photographed, and in return only want to see their image on the camera’s LCD.  Then they thank you for photographing them.

If I could, I would return tomorrow.

We are considering offering our Bhutan trip again in 2013. If we do offer it, and you’d like to be contacted as soon as we decide, please email us and we’ll get in touch as soon as information is available.  View Entire Post…

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Ultimate Antarctica 2011
Field Report, November 18, 2011
by Joe Van Os

November 21st, 2011

More than a week has passed since my last blog entry and we are now on our way to the Antarctic Peninsula from South Georgia. Our two-and-a-half-day-long crossing from the Falkland Islands to South Georgia found us in calm seas and in off and on sunshine. Many of us enjoyed photographing the ship-following birds and listening to varied lectures about the nature of the region and, of course, about photography.

Friday, November 18, 2011 St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia

The limited accuracy of the weather forecasts for the Southern Ocean makes for similarly inaccurate predictions of landing conditions for the various beaches we planned to visit during our six days on South Georgia. After assessing several weather broadcasts from satellite and from other weather predictors, we gauged Friday would be our best chance for a landing on the spectacular broad alluvial beach at St. Andrews Bay.

In my opinion, the beach at St. Andrews Bay is the most spectacular location on an island known for a wealth of incredible settings for wildlife and landscape photography. The site probably most familiar to nature shooters is Salisbury Plain—and it is a fantastic place to shoot. The scene at St. Andrews Bay, however, is larger, more diverse and has a snowcapped-mountain background that adds so much to the images created there.
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Ultimate Antarctica 2011
Field Report, November 13, 2011
by Joe Van Os

November 15th, 2011

Sunday November 13, 2011
From Falkland Islands to South Georgia

As I sit at this keyboard on the Bridge Deck of M/V Ushuaia, a constant stream of wandering albatrosses, southern giant petrels and pintado petrels (Cape petrels) are streaming past the window. Our group of 80 travelers from 11 countries has just spent three incredible days in the Falkland Islands enjoying wonderful weather and relatively smooth seas since our departure from Ushuaia, Argentina, on November 7.

Highlights of our trip so far have been our photography of thousands of gentoo penguins on Saunders Island as they rocketed ashore from the sea onto a mile-long pristine white sand beach, thousands of black-browed albatrosses setting up nesting territories, and rockhopper penguins climbing up precipitous stone cliffs as they return to their colonies from foraging expeditions.

Of course, their attendant predators—Falkland skuas, kelp gulls and striated caracaras—are always on the ready to snatch a precious egg if one of the breeders does not keep up its guard at a critical moment. Activities at these colonies are at fever pitch. Strewn among the other breeders are imperial cormorants which are currently bringing in great blobs of seaweed for nesting material. Some birds are carrying so much seaweed they cannot see ahead of them—they have had several near misses with our photographers as we shot along the periphery of the colonies.

The ship is now out at sea, more than halfway on our 3-day voyage to South Georgia. The group is palpably excited—they are psyched about the experiences to come over the next week we will spend on the island. I have tried to keep expectations in check, but it is pretty difficult as we watch slide shows of the photographic potential to come.

Well, the dining room is about to open. Afterwards I want to spend a little time in the sunshine on the stern deck with this intrepid and congenial group—and take a shot or two at the wandering albatrosses as they glide above the frothy blue water.

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Tuscany: The Grape Harvest, 2011 Trip Report
by Terry Eggers

November 3rd, 2011

For photographers, Tuscany is all about the light.  From the warm golden glow on the Duomo in Florence to the magical blue light of an evening in Pienza, it was the Tuscan light that defined our 2011 Tuscany: The Grape Harvest photo safari.

We began in Florence where, during quick windows of fantastic light while the evening sun was at our backs, we photographed the sunlit Duomo and the bell tower from our hotel’s high terrace.  The warm radiance of buildings in the city’s squares and the Ponte Vecchio bridging the Arno also made for outstanding images.

slideshow-iconOur convenient base for most of the week was the town of Pienza, in southern Tuscany, where the ephemeral blue light of evening was a particular focus.  For only about 15 minutes after sunset that fleeting blue light, along with the glow of the old street lamps, made for truly special photography.  We shot at numerous locations over several evenings capturing the brief, but sublime, light.

Early one morning, on our way to Podere Belvedere near San Quirico d’Orcia, we encountered a low layer of fog.  The combination of a beautiful pink sunrise and the misty fog made for a magical morning.  As the sun rose, we captured the frequent changes in shadow and composition.  Here, working around and among the vineyards and olive tree groves, we spent the rest of the morning photographing the best subjects.  Our evenings, in the same area, presented us with a different palette of color and shadow.  View Entire Post…

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Fifty Travel Tips for your Next Photo Safari
by Joe Van Os

October 18th, 2011

There are numerous guidebooks and websites for travelers to find weather, cultural and geopolitical information, as well as general travel tips to make your journeys more comfortable, efficient and enjoyable.

Here is a list of 50 travel tips that I—and many other many professional photographers—use to make life easier on the road.  Although many of these tips seem like “no brainers,” it is amazing how often people forget to bring alarm clocks and other personal items, or fail to read details about climate when determining their clothing and equipment needs on the road.

Many seasoned travelers can quote the number one travel tip found in most guidebooks and on travel websites—“pack light!”  Heeding that tip has lots of merit.  Yet you don’t want to go on a far-flung trip and regret not bringing a useful piece of equipment or a warmer jacket. Just be sure you can carry it!

Wherever your travels take you, no one in their right mind should try to accomplish all of these tips or pack all of this stuff in preparation for their photo travels.  Pick and choose the strategies that are important to where and when you are traveling, as well as your personal style on the road.  Remember, travel is never any fun if you have to agonize over all the details.

Tips for Personal Gear and Packing It


1.    Pack light! (What did I tell you?)  There are two types of travelers—those who pack light and those who wish they did!   Laundry services for clothing worn daily are available at many locations—so cutting back on the number of shirts and slacks you bring is a good place to start.  Remember, when traveling on a trip using small charter airplanes, the weight limit is a safety issue—and paring down your gear may be a real necessity.

2.    Don’t skimp on critical gear!  If you are really going to need a variety of cold weather gear (for a trip to Antarctica, for example), why set off on an expensive once-in-a-lifetime trip and leave behind a waterproof jacket, rain pants, extra storage hard drives, a better pair of waterproof boots, your tripod and maybe a lens or two to save comparatively little money?  Pay excess baggage charges and don’t worry about missing something you “should have packed.”

3.    A good quality Gore-Tex jacket doubles as both rain gear and a lightweight warm and wind-resistant jacket.  The best place to pack it is on top of all your other clothing to be able to access it quickly when you arrive at a cool or stormy destination.

4.    Pack your shampoo, conditioner or other liquids that could leak in your checked luggage in doubled, freezer-strength Ziploc bags to contain any possible leakage.  Shampoo-soaked jackets and slacks are a genuine hassle.  Remember liquids, gels and aerosols must be in 3.4 ounce (100ml) or smaller containers when transported in carry-on luggage and must fit into a quart-sized Ziploc bag.

5.    Keep your medications, prescriptions, extra eyeglasses, contact lenses and any important documents in your carry-on bag.  Never place them in your checked luggage, which could be delayed.  Keep medicine in original containers, if possible, with legible prescriptions.
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2011 Yellowstone & Grand Tetons in Autumn Trip Report
by Len Rue, Jr.

October 17th, 2011

After spending several decades as a professional wildlife photographer, I am often asked to name my number one favorite place to photograph.  Without question, my answer is always, “Yellowstone.”  And why not?  It has it all!  For big game, Yellowstone has wolves, grizzly bears, black bears, elk, mule deer, moose, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, bison, mountain lions—the list goes on.  For unparalleled scenery, Yellowstone has mountain vistas, spectacular rivers and lakes, plunging waterfalls, vast forests and one of the largest and most photogenic geothermal areas in the world.  Toss in the incomparable Grand Teton Mountain Range—located just to the south—and you have an area filled with photographic opportunities without end.

Our September 2011 Yellowstone & Grand Tetons in Autumn tour was filled with photo highlights from my favorite destination:

•    A week of excellent weather and deep blue skies with just enough clouds to enhance the sunrises and the sunsets.

•    The fabulous scenery in the Tetons from early morning mountain reflections in a series of mirror-smooth beaver ponds along the Snake River to the park’s string of photogenic glacial lakes.slideshow-icon2

•    The southern part of Yellowstone, where the road hugs the rim of the Lewis River Canyon, and where we photographed a unique forested area that is undergoing a “rebirth” from the devastating 1988 Yellowstone fire.

•    One of my favorite places—Yellowstone Lake.  You can never get enough of the beauty of this huge lake, bordered on the east by the Absaroka Mountains.  Add impressive Lake Yellowstone Hotel, built in the early 1890s, for a truly great panorama.

•    Eating our picnic lunches—and photographing the bold, unwary gray jays that patrol the area—after spending part of the morning at the Upper and Lower Falls of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.

•    Looking for—and finding many of—the highly photogenic wildlife species in both parks.

We started our trip in the Tetons at Jackson Hole where we stayed at Jackson Lake Lodge—world renowned Teton accommodations with excellent dining.  We were up before dawn at every opportunity to be at our shooting sites to capture sunrise.   We visited iconic “Mormon Row,” photographing some of the beautiful old historic barns erected in the 1800s by some of the valley’s first settlers.  Though you may not recognize Mormon Row by name, if you’re an outdoor photographer, you’ll definitely know the images.

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The Hottest Cowboy Horse Drive Ever
by Darrell Gulin

October 13th, 2011

Here in much of the West, we have had a strange couple of seasons.  A cold spring and early summer before we—finally—got some heat this fall.  When I arrived in Billings, Montana, en route to our Horses & Icons of the Wild West in Autumn photo shoot, the temperature was in the 90s and the weather forecast for the coming week was “hot and dry.”  At The Hideout in Shell, Wyoming, just two and a half hours to the southeast, the forecast called for the same.

slideshow-icon1What I didn’t know, as I drove to the ranch, was that not only were we going to have a record unseasonable heat wave, but that over the next five days our cameras would also “heat up” with a record number of images taken.  It’s always a productive shoot—but this year everyone, including co-leader Jeff Vanuga and I, would average over 1,000 frames each and every day.

I have led horse drive shoots for more than 16 years—and this was one of the very best.  Many participants actually ran out of space on their hard drives!  One photographer had to check which files could be deleted from her laptop—to make room for more images.  Others borrowed extra external hard drives or flash cards.  The lesson: 500 GB is the minimum amount you should have on your laptop’s hard drive when you come to the ranch.  You will need 8 GB to 32 GB flash cards for this shoot (think of 2 GB flash cards like using a roll of 36-exposure film).  Bring back-up external hard drives in the range of at least 500 GB and, preferably, 1 terabyte.

It doesn’t take long to fill up those gigabytes!  Each day we photographed in a different location for our morning shoot—and then again for the late afternoon shoot.  The ranch, set against the scenic backdrop of the Big Horn Mountains, has about 300,000 acres of diverse and photogenic locations from the valley floor at 4,000 feet in elevation to the golden aspen groves at 8,000 feet.

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Brown Bears of Silver Salmon Creek, Alaska 2011 Trip Report
by Perry Conway

August 23rd, 2011

There is something about photographing bears at close range that can make your heart pound, your stomach tighten, the hair on the back of your neck stand up, and fill you with joy and wonder—all at the same time!  I knew we were preparing for just such an adventure when our group met in Anchorage the evening before our flight to Lake Clark National Park.  As we gathered for dinner everyone was already excited about the days ahead.

slideshow-iconThe next morning, we met our bush pilot at Lake Hood, loaded the plane, and flew about one hour west along the north side of Cook Inlet to our destination—the pristine beach at Silver Salmon Creek.  As you approach it is common to see bears grazing in the meadow, walking the shore, digging for clams or chasing fish through the surf.  Beach landings are always an adventure—bumpy, but very safe.  Our guides were there to greet us with all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) to transport us and our gear the half mile to our lodge.  After getting our room assignments, our first great home-cooked meal, and a short orientation about the local bears and photographing them safely, we were soon off again on our trusty ATVs.

That first afternoon shoot quickly gave us a foretaste of the exciting photography ahead!  In less than 15 minutes there were seven bears—two sows with cubs and one solitary adult—grazing on the lush green sedges and grasses right in front of us.  We were standing within 100 feet of one of the sows and her two black 30-pound cubs.  One participant whispered, “I can’t believe we’re getting this close!”

This Alaskan population of coastal grizzlies is called “brown bears”—larger and darker than the grizzlies that live in the interior.  Here, they have plenty to eat and are what we call “people neutral”—they definitely know we are there, but usually pay little attention to us.  Watching this icon of the American wilderness right in front of you—doing its natural behavior in a wilderness environment—overwhelms your senses and is always a major adrenaline rush!

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Why Medium Format Rules
by James Martin

July 1st, 2011

In a rapidly evolving market, professional photographers seek competitive advantages—ways to add value for the client. If your images look sharper and richer than the other guy’s, you will tend to get the sale. Passionate amateurs want their prints to create the maximum impact, reflecting their experience photographing the subject.

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Phase One

Camera companies have responded by escalating megapixels in the quest for ever more resolution, but physics gets in the way. Packing more photo sites on a sensor tends to increase noise, and higher resolution reveals deficiencies in lenses, signal processing and sensor design.

Enter medium format.

After a long, slow period of decline, medium format camera systems are ascendant again, offering full 645-sized sensors with correspondingly high megapixel counts. Why would anyone abandon DSLRS for one of these relatively slow, heavy and expensive hunks of photographic bling? Because the prints look better.

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Leica

They say there’s no substitute for cubic inches when it comes to engines, and the same is true for sensor size. Blow up well-executed images from a Canon 1DS III or a Nikon D3X into very large prints and compare them with the prints from a medium format system. There is a palpability to the medium format images the 35mm DSLR images can’t match. The sharpness is finer, color richer, color gradations more subtle and tonal range wider. Although these improvements are most apparent in large prints, even smaller images display more impact.
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