
NOTE: You can download a PDF version of this logbook by clicking on the image to the left.
Monday 7 November, 2011 Depart Ushuaia—down Beagle Channel to Open Sea
Most of the Photo Safaris group spent the morning at Tierra del Fuego National Park. Following lunch, they returned to the Hotel Albatros to collect their hand luggage that had been left in the lobby and guarded by our staff while they were touring the park.
Our group of 82 (passengers and staff from 11 countries) boarded the Ushuaia by 1600 this afternoon. By 1830 we untied from the dock and were on our way. Southern beech trees, snowcapped mountains, incoming airplanes and the thriving southern city of Ushuaia receded from view as we sailed east through the verdant Beagle Channel towards the southern Atlantic.
Black-browed albatrosses, southern giant petrels, king cormorants, South American terns and many other birds accompanied our passage. After the emergency evacuation drill was accomplished we settled into what was to become our new regime for the next three weeks—a daily program of lectures or landings punctuated by excellent meals, great camaraderie and on-demand Photoshop/Lightroom assistance from the professional photographic team.
At nearly midnight, the harbor pilot left our ship at the mouth of the channel and we soon began to feel the rock and roll of open sea.
Tuesday 8 November At Sea towards the Falkland Islands
We experienced a calm day on the water (by Southern Ocean standards) with numerous seabirds swirling around the ship. We gained our “sea legs,” gradually getting used to the ship’s motion. Many passengers photographed flying birds from the rear decks. We had our first introduction to the lecture theater and its swashing water sounds from the ship’s “stabilizer,” deep within the bowels of the ship.
Joe Van Os and Monika Schillat presented an exciting talk on Hitting the Beach in the Falkland Islands, outlining the photographic possibilities as well as our care and obligations while visiting the region’s wildlife. An additional timetable of lectures on Photographic Composition from Mary Ann McDonald and The History and Geology of the Falkland Islands with Chris Edwards was presented.
Wednesday 9 November New Island, North—Ship Harbor
We arrived at the Falkland Islands at 2245 on the evening before our next-day landing, so a comfortable, flat-calm night was spent in a sheltered harbor of New Island. Breakfast commenced at 0700 and landings started at 0830.
The weather was great so, after a quick New Island introduction on what to see and a reminder on how to behave among the wildlife, we started landings on the small sandy beach. It was just a 20-minute walk to the cliff views and our first amazing seabird colony experience. Here, we had close-up views of many hundreds of black-browed albatrosses along a mile of cliff. Intermingled with the albatrosses, rockhopper penguins argued over nest sites, and king cormorants impressed mates with great beakfuls of seaweed for the nest. Halfway through the morning the calm changed, the wind increased and the birds started to fly, giving everyone fine views of the 9-foot wingspan of the black-browed albatrosses quartering the cliffs and flying in squadrons overhead.
Below the 1,200-foot-tall fluvial sandstone cliffs, big swells swirled the long strands of kelp and a pod of about 15 Peale’s dolphins worked the reefs and fished immediately below the bird colony. It was a great introduction to the Falklands. View Entire Post…
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