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The contrast between ancient traditions and the dawning of a 21st-century democracy is most visible in Ulaanbaatar, where traditional gers (dome-shaped tent shelters) and Buddhist monasteries coexist with modern high-rises. Our stay in the city includes strolling the grounds of the Gandan Monastery where lamas worship, photographing a magnificent 82-foot-high gilded statue of Migjid Janraisig, and shopping in the markets. The highlight of the trip, however, takes place in the remote capital of Bayan-Ulgii, a province on Mongolia’s western border. Ninety percent of the population here is
The evening before the Golden Eagle Festival the small community offers competitors, many of whom have traveled as far as 140 miles on horseback, a special performance of Kazakh dance, song, and music—and we’re invited! The next morning the official opening ceremony begins with a parade of the hunters on horseback with their eagles. The most elaborate clothing and accessories are rewarded with the highest points. Later in the day, the eagles are judged for their speed and agility. The second day of the competition is packed with action—eagles fly from the cliff’s edge to chase bait dragged by their human hunting partners, and the men demonstrate their courage in an ancient test of horsemanship.
For the next four days, we explore the stunning landscape of the Gobi. One of our goals is to capture images of the Flaming Cliffs when the orangered sandstone glows at dawn and dusk. Another stop will be the Yol Valley National Park, which lies cradled between nearby foothills. The ancient river that carved this valley keeps the area a shocking green in the midst of huge expanses of desert. We spend another day exploring the spectacular panoramas of the world’s northernmost desert, including a striking white escarpment where the famous “Fighting Dinosaurs” were discovered in the 1970s. We then fly back to Ulaanbaatar and make our way home. Day 1 Depart from home. Day 2 (Sep 29) Arrive in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Meet for dinner at our hotel. (D) Day 3 We visit the Gandan Monastery—seat of Buddhism in Mongolia. After lunch we’ll see museum displays of the rich paleontological sites in the Gobi Desert, and the historical costumes and religious relics of Mongolia’s minority tribes. (BLD)
We fly to Ulgii. (BLD) Day 5 We visit the homes of eagle hunters in the Altai mountains and explore the local mosque and market in late afternoon. (BLD) Day 6 This is a day of cultural exploration. Local women decorate their gers in a dazzling array of colors—hand-crafted felt carpets line the floor and delicately-embroidered tapestries adorn the walls, with each design unique to a particular family. We also spend time at a small, but impressive museum which houses the finest embroideries, woven carpets and artifacts of the Kazakh people. (BLD) Day 7 The first day of the Golden Eagle Festival, with its parades and competitions for costuming and hunting techniques. (BLD) Day 8 Today the eagles chase fox skins dragged by their owners on horseback. Points are given for their speed and gripping ability. Festival winners are announced at an awards dinner. (BLD)
Return to Ulaanbaatar. (BLD) Day 10 We fly to the Gobi and drive to Bulagtai, a tented camp in Gurvansaikhan National Park. Travel to the Flaming Cliffs for evening light. (BLD) Day 1112 We visit an ancient and lush river valley in the midst of the desert, and Tugrigiin Shiree, the famous escarpment where fossils of a Protoceratops and a Velociraptor are permanently locked in combat. (BLD) Day 13 We fly to Ulaanbaatar for sightseeing and shopping. (BLD) Day 14 Our last excursion is to Gorkhi Terelj National Park in the Khentii mountain range. Stunning landscapes, interesting rock formations and wildlife are the attractions here. In the evening we enjoy a performance of the Mongolian throat singers. (BLD) Day 15 (Oct 12) We depart for home. |
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