Ultimate Antarctica January 5–February 1, 2008

Penguins. It’s the number one subject, the one that immediately comes to mind when one thinks of a photo safari to the southernmost points of our world. If a friend, neighbor or colleague asks about your Antarctica trip—whether you are about to go or have just returned—chances are they’ll ask about these iconic, charismatic birds. But a trip to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands offers far more than just penguins. What you shoot and how you use your time while on a trip to the great South can increase the value, and the productivity, of your trip immensely. We’re going to help you do just that.

	Shipboard photography offers innumerable opportunities, from ice flows covered with crab-eater seals to seabirds. Spectacular icebergs often drift passed, so it’s always prudent to have a camera and lens at the ready.

Throughout our voyage, during the daylight hours, it’s easy to be busy the entire day, with little "down time." That’s a literal statement, for even as we cruise from one location to another, there are plenty of informative lectures—and there is always the siren’s song of the laptop, editing images or messing with Photoshop. Cruising days could mistakenly be viewed as down time, as everyone always looks forward to the landings, but there are plenty of great shooting opportunities that arise while we’re cruising to our various destinations. Between the photography, the lectures and the social times at tea or at meals, we’re talking about a very full platter, especially in January—the time of our next Photo Safari cruise to Antarctica—because there are so many hours of daylight. In fact, you might need to schedule your sleep time!

On an Antarcic cruise years ago, I saw a well-known photographer's slide show and I was struck by his many incredible flight shots of seabirds. His images were riveting, perhaps in part because they departed from the usual penguin and iceberg shots one expects to see. Those images made a lasting impression on me and were one more reason I wanted to travel to and shoot in Antarctica.

	One of the largest of all flying birds, wandering albatrosses often visit our boat in the passage between the Falkland Islands to South Georgia, and the off-shore waters of that island.

While nearly everyone hopes for calm, glassy seas and smooth transits from point to point, tumultuous seas are generated by wind—and wind brings the albatrosses, fulmars and petrels that patrol these southern seas. Flight shots are only possible when we’re sailing, so don’t make the mistake of holding off to shoot these pelagic seabirds when the weather is nice. When there’s a bluebird sky and a windless day, these trans-global gliders don’t fly. Updrafts, kicking up off of the waves, and tail-chasing winds propel these huge seabirds, which may literally circumnavigate the southern ocean in a weeklong search for food, with nary a wing flap the entire time!

With the entire ocean at their wingtip, it seems ironic that so many seabirds fly so close—often right by our ship. There are several reasons for this, not the least of which is that albatrosses and petrels probably associate ships with food, as both will regularly scavenge off fishing boats. This practice has had deadly consequences for many seabirds, as they often snatch the baited hooks of long-line fishermen and are snagged and dragged under the waves. It’s estimated that over 100,000 seabirds are killed each year in this way. Fatalities can be significantly reduced by simply using weighted hooks that sink the lethal bait beyond the reach of hungry birds. Unfortunately, not all long-line fishing boats employ this easy solution.

	Confused with albatrosses, the heavier bodied, stouter winged giant petrels are common visitors to the boat, often circling and following our boat’s wake for hours on end.

Big ships also create enticing updrafts for these gliding birds as winds circle the globe virtually unchecked, except for the drag of the ocean surface, until they meet an island, continent or ship that can deflect these constant winds. On windy days albatrosses and giant petrels will make great circles around the ship, following in its wake for minutes on end, then passing by—often at eye level—on wings that seem to barely move. Sometimes the birds appear to be almost within touching distance, but this is deceptive in a world without landmarks for a wandering albatross—one of the world’s largest flying birds with a wingspan of 12 feet—will fill the frame of a 400mm lens while a jay-sized petrel appears as a mere speck.

Shooting these great seabirds can be frustrating. Although they are big, they still fly fast, especially when they’re close to the boat and may zip past faster than you can keep a lens on them. Adding to the challenge of keeping a fast moving bird within your viewfinder is doing so with motion of the boat, while contending with the occasional blast of salt spray from a wave. Some photographers handhold 100-400mm focal lengths so that they can easily follow a fast moving bird. Mary and I usually do not handhold but instead often use a 500mm mounted on a tripod to shoot these birds from the deck. While a tripod can be inconvenient or a bit limiting at times for following all the action, we think it pays off in terms of always being ready, and without the fatigue that comes from holding a heavy lens while waiting for birds to come into range.

	Approximately pigeon-sized, the beautiful cape petrel, as well as occasional other species, offer exciting flight shots. But you have to be ready. On our last trip, we only had a few days where these little petrels cooperated, so seize the opportunity when it arises.

The best tripod head for following flying birds is the Wimberley Gimbal-style head—nothing beats it for its ease of panning. The Wimberley head balances a long lens even when all the locking knobs are loose, so that there’s no chance a lens could "mouse trap" a finger as can happen when a heavy lens flops down or to the side when using a traditional ballhead. I’ve had that happen several times with ballhead-mounted long lenses, believe me, it hurts! Despite this concern, we don’t take our Wimberley ballheads since, on shore, we’re often using shorter lenses that require a traditional ballhead such as the Really Right Stuff BH-55s. Our choice of which ballhead to bring is based solely on luggage space—we don’t have the room to carry everything we’d like to bring. However, if you find you have the room to carry two ballheads, take that Wimberley!

One of the real challenges in shooting flying birds from the ship is maintaining a level horizon line in your picture. Even though we’re headed south, seas are level (bad joke) and a tilted horizon looks odd. Fortunately, a slanted sea can usually be corrected in Photoshop—either in the RAW converter or in the main program. I’m sure I or one of the many other leaders aboard will demonstrate how to level a horizon during a program on one of our travel days, or during one of the many informal sessions that develop in the lounge.

	One of the world’s most spectacular sights is the ethereal, silent landscape of a sea of icebergs. Every minute the scene, the angles, and the lighting changes in a mesmerizing panorama that simply screams "the Antarctic!"

I want to stress the flight shooting opportunities because they can be fleeting. If the seas are too rough or if the weather is too unpleasant it’s quite difficult to shoot, and, conversely, if the seas are calm there won’t be any birds flying at all. You want to be ready when the opportunities arise. I think it's easy to fall into the trap of thinking you can shoot these pelagic seabirds at your convenience, and put it off for another day. Don’t make that mistake.

At our destinations, there’s plenty to shoot while aboard the ship as well. An often-neglected but important subject is the loading and unloading of the Zodiacs, and the cruising to and from the ship. Near the Antarctic Peninsula and along some of the island groups, pack ice and icebergs dominate the landscape in jaw-dropping splendor—white tabular slabs miles long gleam against a blue-black sea, and the views and angles change constantly as we cruise by. "The shot" may appear out of nowhere, and may last just a few seconds as we pass a berg, and you must be ready.

In places like the Lemaire Channel we can be surrounded by the unending spectacle of rugged seaside mountains, gleaming glaciers and seal-clad icebergs. Our favorite lens for shipboard scenics is the

	The days are long in the Antarctic summer and spectacular sunsets can last for hours.

Canon 28-300mm (with Nikon I’d choose the 18-200mm zoom), as these wide-ranging zooms provide a huge range of compositional possibilities. And those possibilities truly never stop. While this may sound unbelievable, it’s easy to get jaded, and certainly sated, by all this beauty and to think that you have photographed all that you can.

While you might think so, and then be tempted to spend time in your cabin editing images you’ve already made, remember this: you may not be back. Even if you do return (and many do indeed), this may be your only chance to see and photograph the locations you’re visiting. Don’t count on getting the coverage later, as the itineraries may differ, and even if they don’t, the weather may. Most importantly, you’ll have time later, back home, to do that editing work! And if you argue that you won’t have the time to edit when you get home, I can assure you that you won’t have the chance to shoot an iceberg, seabird, whale or glaciated landscape then either!

I speak from experience here, because I learned a valuable lesson on our last trip. On that voyage, one of our close friends was enamored with icebergs and he couldn’t shoot enough of them. I was a bit puzzled by his obsession, but later, when a group of us got together for a portfolio slide show, all of us were stunned by his breadth of coverage. He saw, and photographed, bergs I’d never seen, and so well, that I wondered if I’d even been on the same boat! I was impressed and, I must admit, a bit envious, but I learned from that experience, too. Make hay while the sun shines and shoot the wonders of this incredible part of the world when you have the chance. And you will have plenty of those chances, so make the most of every minute of this incredible journey. I know we will.

All images Copyright © Joe and Mary Ann McDonald