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I suspect most of this equipment comes from traditional photographic sourcesthe local camera store or a mail order house. Some of the neatest toys are those that may not make an image or have any real bearing on the image-making process, but may nonetheless help you get a shot. These accessories are not found in the average photography store or catalog, yet they can be extremely handy tools for getting the job done. First on this list has to be binoculars. Ive been a wildlife watcher and birder since I was eight, and Ive gone through a lot of binoculars in that time. Last year, as a surprise birthday present from Mary, I received my all-time favorite pair, Canons 18x Image Stabilization binoculars. At 18x, the binoculars would seem to be too powerful to be useful, and certainly too powerful to be used handheld without a tripod. Incredibly, however, the image stabilization really works and, when activated, one obtains an image that is virtually shake-free. In comparison, my once-favorite Zeiss 10x traditional binoculars seem like theyre powered by Mexican jumping beans. Canon makes three models of IS binoculars, an 18x, a 15x, and a 12x. For my money, the 18x are the way to go, since maintaining a steady image is not an issue—as it would normally be with traditional binoculars. And, at 18x the capabilities one has are simply incredible. Using these binoculars in Kenya Ive often spotted cheetahs well over a mile away and, once, from a hillside over two and one-half miles away, I spotted a pride of lions. One of my favorite anecdotes concerning these binoculars occurred in the Serengeti. I had spotted two cheetahs that were so far away I couldnt find a landmark on the endless plains to use to direct our vehicle driver. Instead, I simply had the driver head in the direction I indicated. En route, about a mile along, our driver spotted two cheetahs sitting beneath a tree far to the right of the direction we were heading. I didnt think they were the same two cats, but I couldnt be sure. We headed over to photograph them but the cheetahs were shy and trotted off, so we continued on in the original direction. Almost a mile farther along, we discovered two more cheetahs, surely the ones Id initially seen. The driver couldnt believe it, for it seemed as if he had been driving forever. Admittedly, most of our photography requires having a sufficient amount of light to see or to focus by. After dark, our wildlife observations become more difficult, yet theres still a lot to see and a lot of scouting that can be done in preparation for future shooting. There are two ways to go after dark—lights and night vision equipment.  Outside of the US military, Bushnell (www.bushnell.com) is the leader in night vision
optics. Night vision works by intensifying existing light, not by using an auxiliary light source. Whatever the source of the illumination—moonlight,
starlight, dull predawn or post-sunset gloom—night vision optics can intensify the light sufficiently to allow animals to be seen.
Bushnell makes both monocular and binocular night vision optics. Ive used both, including a binocular set that mounts onto a special headstrap to allow for hands-free use. Its a bit tricky to walk in the dark with the tunnel vision youll experience with the 1x binoculars, but with practice it can be done. My favorite, though, is their Advanced Night Vision monocular, which approaches second-generation, or near military quality, and which gives you a very bright, very clear image. While the monocular requires hands-on use, its generally not a problem since most night observations are made from a static position.  Both the night vision monocular and the binoculars come equipped with an infrared light source, which emits a beam that carries thirty or more
yards. The only clue that the beam is
on is the reddish glow emanating from the light source. The light itself is invisible to our eyes, but the night vision optics pick it up and intensify
its brightness.
Although the infrared light can be used as an auxiliary light source, night vision optics are designed to enhance existing light, however dim that light may be. Because a thick canopy of leaves shields the forest floor from a night skys ambient light, I havent had much success using the night vision optics in deep woods. In the open, however, where starlight or moonlight provides some illumination, Ive watched animals with remarkable clarity. If I wish to photograph something, then I definitely need a white light to focus by and thats where headlamps are especially handy. Headlamps have come a long way in the time Ive been using them, and are available now with bright halogen bulbs, green or red night vision lights and other features. The key to a good headlamp is flexibility. It should have the capacity to be positioned for several levels or directions. Youll need the lamp to aim forwards when youre looking for subjects or when youre simply walking in the dark. Since I often do macro work after dark, I need a headlamp that can point downward at a steeper angle as well, so that I can illuminate the spiders or tree frogs that are just in front of my camera lens. There are a variety of headlamps available, but my two favorites are the Trident Streamlight (www.streamlight.com) and the NightBlaster by Optronics (1-800-364-5483). The Trident is small and lightweight and is powered by three AAA batteries. It has a green LED night vision position which provides a view similar to that which one sees through night vision optics and a low and a high power white light. The headlamp is extremely adjustable to permit easy focusing when doing macro work. The NightBlaster uses a rechargeable 6-volt battery and has a detachable red lens for night viewing. The headlamp is adjustable and can be focused into a tight beam for distant work, where it truly shines with 80,000 candlepower. Unfortunately, wearing a headlamp can be difficult when a flash or a control console for a ringlight or twin-light macro system is mounted upon a hotshoe. Then, when I look through the viewfinder, the equipment mounted in the cameras hotshoe usually blocks my light. Ive gotten around  that problem by using a small flashlight mounted on my flash bracket. Streamlight makes a small but powerful lamp, called a ClipMate, that snaps
onto the mounting bracket of my Wimberley flash system, which provides extremely efficient illumination when Im doing close-up work.
I often use headlamps and night vision optics to assist me in photographing wild predators. As you probably know, American predators—bobcat, puma, fox, coyote, etc.—are extremely difficult to film in the wild, as most predators need to be elusive in order to survive. The easiest way to get close to a wild predator is to have that predator come to you, and the most efficient way to do that is with a game call. There are a variety of game-calling devices available, from mouth-blown calls to tapes, CDs and digital devices. Most of these are designed for hunters, not photographers, but they work equally well for both. Ive used many different game calls over the years, but my absolute favorite is one produced by Foxpro (www.gofoxpro.com) and is lightweight, small and capable of being remotely operated. The Foxpro game-call looks just like a 6-volt flashlight, with the built-in loudspeaker positioned where the lamps reflector would be. The caller can be programmed for 8, 16 or 32 different sounds. Id strongly suggest getting the 32-sound model for the flexibility it provides.  I picked all the calls that might be enticing
to predators, including the distress cries of goat, sheep, pig, fawn deer, rabbit and jackrabbit, mouse and other sounds. I also added a number of
turkey calls, which are not useful for predator calling but are a great way to bring in the wary wild turkeys that roam our woods.
Id recommend two other game calls produced by Phantom Extreme (www.phantomcalls.com). One version, equipped with a variety of deer sounds, is designed primarily for hunters, although photographers specializing in deer would definitely find this very useful. The other offers a mix of predator calls. The Phantom Extreme has the capability of mixing two calls together, which might prove enticing for a wary predator. My model has a loudspeaker hardwired to my control unit, but a wireless system will be available shortly. Game calling is an art and takes patience, stealth and multiple attempts to be successful. In a future column Ill address the techniques involved. To get anyone started Id advise that you sit perfectly still (or be in a blind) when calling, play the call at a low volume rather than a high, and be prepared to wait twenty minutes or more if youre hoping to call in a wild cat. Speaking of blinds, my favorite is the one Ive used for over twenty years—the L.L. Rue Ultimate Blind www.cabelas.com), the ultimate candy store mail order and retail outlet for outdoor equipment. Admittedly, all of the items listed above are accessories that will help you with your wildlife photography, but they are not necessities. However, last year I did purchase one item that Id have to consider an absolute must have for any outdoor photographer who steps off the beaten path. Thats a wristwatch with a built-in compass. The Casio Pathfinder has a compass, stopwatch, barometer, altimeter and several alarm modes, but simpler models offering only a compass are also available from Timex and Casio. Ive had one very close call while photographing that illustrates both the importance of having a compass and also how quickly one can get into trouble. Mary and I and several friends almost got lost just minutes after we stepped off of a park bus in Denali National Park to follow some caribou. It was a foggy day and visibility was only a hundred yards or so. Conditions soon got worse, with a heavy rain slicing through the gray gloom. We were wet, caribou-less and I didnt have a clue where the main road was. Fortunately, another member of our group had a tiny button compass pinned to his jacket and we worked our way back to a road in short order—in a direction totally opposite the way we were going. Watches with compasses are extremely handy. Unlike a GPS unit or a standard compass (which I own and always forget to bring!), a watch-compass is always with you. Nowadays, I dont leave home without it!  Non-photographers use all of the items listed above; sometimes, its just fun to scout or observe and not worry about making an image. Of
course, when you see something great, youll wish you had that camera, but thats why youre using this equipment in the first place—to
further your photographic horizons. Night scopes, good headlamps, great binoculars—all of these will help. And in that big contest, where
the one with the most stuff wins, youre sure to be deep in the running!
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Joseph Van Os Photo Safaris, Inc. P.O. Box 655, Vashon Island, Washington USA 98070 Phone: (206) 463-5383 Fax: (206) 463-5484 Email: info@photosafaris.com Copyright © 2008, Joseph Van Os Photo Safaris, Inc. |